Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
